Category Archives: North Carolina

Touring the Outer Banks

In our last post about Kitty Hawk, we took you to one small slice of North Carolina’s Outer Banks.  Today we show you the other places we visited on this ribbon of sand that extends for 200 miles along the Atlantic coast.

Commonly referred to as OBX, the area consists of the islands of Ocracoke, Hatteras, Pea, Bodie, and Roanoke, along with the peninsula known as Currituck Banks.  Due to the shifting nature of the sand and the force of the storms that shape them, some of these islands come and go.  What might be an island today could very well be a peninsula tomorrow.  One of the most dynamic places along the chain is Cape Point, a corner of sand that moves continually south and west.  Just to the north of that point is Cape Hatteras Lighthouse.

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This sentinel has stood guard here since 1870 and is America’s tallest brick lighthouse.  Well actually, not quite ‘here’, as remember…the island is moving.  When built, the tower was 1500 feet from the shore.  The ocean reshaped the island over time to where the structure was in danger of falling into the drink.  That 1500 feet had become just 15 feet.

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So in 1999, the National Park Service contracted to have the lighthouse moved 1/2 mile southwest to a point that is 1500 feet due east of the shore.  The red arrow shows about where the lighthouse used to be.  The move was considered an engineering marvel, as the tower is nearly 5000 tons and almost 200 feet tall!

As we climbed the steps, we noticed that the salt air is taking a toll on the lighthouse.

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The iron window frames are either rusting or are missing.  Not sure exactly why that is being allowed to happen, especially after putting so much effort into moving it.  Hmmmm….

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There are 257 steps up to the light itself, along with these beautiful black and white marble landings every 31 steps.  It is a very long climb.

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Not to worry; they were ready for us at the top.

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From the gallery, we could easily see Cape Point…

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…and how far we were from the ground!

While we were on the Outer Banks, we also visited several other lighthouses.

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Bodie (pronounced ‘body’) Island Lighthouse stands 40 miles north of Cape Hatteras.  This beauty still has its first order Fresnel lens, similar to the one we were responsible for at Heceta Head in Oregon last summer.  Vandals destroyed the one at Cape Hatteras years ago, and it was replaced with an aircraft beacon.

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We also visited Ocracoke Lighthouse, which was built in 1823.  It is still operating!  To reach it, we had to take a one-hour ferry ride from Hatteras Island.

While on Ocracoke Island, we visited their local historical museum.  It had an interesting collection of items that show what living on this isolated island is like.

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At the back of the museum was a video and a list of words that O’cockers (people raised on Ocracoke) use.  It’s actually tough to understand what they are saying as they speak.  One of the stories on the film was about some friends who flew to Las Vegas and brought their own oysters in Styrofoam coolers wrapped in duct tape to save a few bucks.  The part about one of the packages splitting open on the luggage carousel was hilarious.  🙂

Farther north on the Outer Banks is Roanoke Island.  This small piece of land actually sits inside the barrier islands, even though it is considered to be part of OBX.  It was here that the Lost Colony of Roanoke once existed.  In 1587, England attempted to establish a presence in North America at this location.  More than 100 men, women, and children landed on the island and worked to build a colony.  Their leader, John White, sailed back to England for supplies, only to be delayed in returning by a war that had erupted with Spain.  When he returned in 1590, the colonists were nowhere to be found.  Among them was the first European born in America, Virginia Dare.  The county that OBX is located in is named Dare in her honor.  What happened to the colonists?  Many theories exist, but no one knows for certain.

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Next to the site where the colony was is the Elizabethan Gardens.  We wanted to tour here, as the spring flowers are all in bloom!

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The azaleas were just gorgeous!

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So much color and fragrance.

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The garden’s namesake, Queen Elizabeth I, stands proud in the center of the property.  She was responsible for sending the colonists to America.

And here is another fun fact while visiting the site:

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Roanoke Island was the scene of a Civil Was battle.  This gentleman was a Union brigadier general by the name of Ambrose Burnside.  It is his unique way of styling his facial hair that used a twist of his last name to describe it: sideburns.  I always wondered where that came from!

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And no trip to the Outer Banks is complete without watching the kite boarders!

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With the steady breeze, these people were having a great time.

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We even noticed several Michigan license plates on the vehicles in the parking lot.  Still too cold on the Great Lakes to attempt this in April.

As mentioned at the beginning of the post, these islands are constantly changing.  While crossing the bridge from Bodie to Pea Islands, we saw a curious sign:

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Hey….what’s up with this???  Well, Pea Island was once part of Bodie Island, until a hurricane cut an inlet across it in 1846.  The first ship to navigate through the new waterway was the Oregon, so that’s what they named the inlet after.  Thought we were back on the west coast for a minute…

That wraps up our time in North Carolina.  We move into Virginia next, as well as inland for a bit.  Stay tuned to see what we find on our next adventure.  Until then, safe travels to all!

Wright Brothers at Kitty Hawk

As long as there have been humans watching birds soar through the skies above them, mankind has wanted to fly.   Jean-François Pilâtre de Rozier and François Laurent d’Arlandes  floated skyward above Paris in 1783 using a hot air balloon.  In 1853, George Cayley witnessed the successful manned flight of a glider that he had invented in England.  It was he who identified the four basic principles of flight that a heavier-than-air aircraft uses today:  thrust, gravity, lift, and drag.  He also identified the cambered shape of a bird’s wings, which create lift as air passes over them.

In the 1890’s, two bicycle shop owners from Dayton, Ohio, decided to try their hand at building an airplane.  Orville and Wilbur Wright used Cayley’s principles to construct a two-winged glider.  In order to test it, they needed a location with a soft landing surface (sand), a hill, and sustained winds.  Noting the media circus that had taken place near Chicago when Octave Chanute had tested his gliders, the Wrights were also looking for privacy.  They contacted the weather bureau for locations with the best sustained winds.  Kitty Hawk, North Carolina was chosen, after the hamlet’s postmaster responded favorably to an inquiry from the brothers.  William Tate’s reply included help with the endeavor in any way he could.  The crew of the local U.S. Lifesaving station also offered to lend a hand when needed. In 1900, the Wrights brought their first glider to Kitty Hawk by train to give it a try.  The first tests were flown unmanned and tethered as a kite.  Then Wilbur flew aboard untethered to see if he could control it.  They had come up with an idea they called wing warping…a process in which the wings were bent in one direction or another to steer the plane, along with an elevator to maneuver up and down.  They determined the glider needed to be larger, as they weren’t able to stay in the air long enough to adequately test the controls.  In 1901, they brought a larger glider to Kitty Hawk, only to find that their wings weren’t producing enough lift.  They had been relying on data produced by Germany’s Otto Lilienthal, who had died in 1896 in a glider crash.

After abandoning Lilienthal’s figures and testing 200 wing designs in their homemade wind tunnel, the Wrights set out for Kitty Hawk in late 1902 to try out their new glider.  They had also added a rudder to the plane, thereby giving them three ways to control it.  It worked.  Over a one month period, they made approximately 1,000 flights…with one being 622 feet.  Systems they developed that year, are still the basis for aircraft today.

In 1903, they decided to add power to their aircraft.  Their bike shop employee, Charlie Taylor, machined a light weight engine for them out of a solid block of aluminum.  The Wrights fashioned propellers out of laminated wood. They had no basis for design, other than the props from ship motors.  After much discussion, it was decided that the propellers should exhibit the properties of a glider wing.  Their theory proved correct, and their creation was over 80% efficient.  Not bad for not having a starting point!

On December 14, the brothers flipped a coin to see who would fly first.  Wilbur won. They attempted to take off from Big Kill Devil Hill, the large sand dune they had been using for glider flights.  The plane lifted off for three seconds and then stalled, as he had attempted to rise too quickly.  The landing broke the front elevator. Three days later, they summoned the lifesaving crew over to the hanger.  The group aimed the airplane into a cold, 27 mile-an-hour headwind on level ground.  Since Wilbur piloted the previous attempt, Orville climbed on board.

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The aircraft lifted off for a 12 second, 120 foot flight!  Orville was able to bring the plane in for a somewhat controlled landing.  Wilbur then took the plane for a 12 second, 175 foot flight.  Orville followed with a 15 second, 200 foot flight.  The last flight of the day was by Wilbur; a 59 second, 852 foot flight.  That is almost the length of three football fields!  The plane landed hard and again broke the front elevator.  While bringing it back to the hanger, a gust of wind caught the plane and caused it to tumble end over end, which made repairs much more difficult.  They decided to call it a season, as they wanted to be back in Ohio for Christmas.  The plane was packed up, and sent back to Dayton, never to be flown again. Eventually, the restored plane made its way to the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, D.C. where it hangs from the ceiling today.  They continued improving upon their design, and eventually achieved their goal of selling planes to the military.

When Diana and I found our way to the Outer Banks of North Carolina this spring, we knew Kitty Hawk was one of the ‘must see’ destinations.  The National Park Service operates the site of the flights as the Wright Brothers National Memorial.

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At the top of Big Kill Devil Hill, a large granite pillar is erected to signify their accomplishment.  Note that the area is completely covered in grass now, planted to keep the hill from shifting southward from the prevailing winds.

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When we got to the front of the structure, we noticed the sun was positioned directly in line with it.  The clouds also had an interesting pattern to them, which we thought was neat.

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The size of the memorial is impressive, to say the least.  The inscription that is inscribed in the base reads  “In commemoration of the conquest of the air, by the brothers Wilbur and Orville Wright, conceived by genius, achieved by dauntless resolution and unconquerable faith.”

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The view from the top shows the position of the hanger and their workshop and living quarters, along with the markers that signify the length of each flight.  In 1903, neither those houses in the distance nor trees were there.

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From the large granite marker at the end of the rail where they took off, a path runs along four smaller markers that signify the length of each flight.  Walking along it, I thought of all of the subsequent accomplishments in the 115 years since that day. All of us have been touched in one way or another by what happened at Kitty Hawk.

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On the back side of Big Kill Devil Hill is an interactive sculpture of Orville’s first flight, shown here from the photographer’s point of view.

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All of the men who were present for the event are depicted.  The second man from the right is a lumberman from Manteo who just happened to be at the lifesaving station when the Wrights signaled the crew to come over and help.

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Visitors are encouraged to climb aboard the plane.  Diana and I took turns flying with Orville.  A fun way to end a perfect visit!

Stay tuned to see what else we find as we explore the rest of the Outer Banks in our next post.  Until then, safe travels!